🔗 Share this article

When compiling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate renowned high-end names. Yet, situated prominently among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Surprise Honour

The little Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The honour has made the owners completely surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their modest restaurant achieving such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary triumph.